Just today I jumped it and it started with no problem. I can see the starter and have removed the bolt that is on the belt side. That means either my battery doesnt have enough power to crank the engine or I have a bad solenoid starter. The other solution is to turn the car off and disconect the car battery for 10 minutes-and then the mmi will reset itself. For petrol engine models up to June 2009 it's relays A1 and A2. A search will show how to hook up the remote button at the engine fuse box. Up untill today I thought it was the starter.
They're on the front top of the engine - you'll see them if you follow the spark plug wires back. Description 1 Not used 1. A big thick one which carries the current to the motor and a small thin one which controls the solenoid. Now I drove the car around for about 5 minutes then turned it off. The symptoms are all electrical works except when the key is turned to start no signal to the startersolenoid. . I took it to the dealer and they had to load a new update for the mmi system.
The switches are notorious for failing and the symptoms vary. All the manuals say that I have to remove a bolt from the transmission side but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to do so. . Luckily mine is covered under warranty. I just did this on mine yesterday because my clock runs a few minutes fast each month. It can be any two of five relays depending on engine and year! So this morning after I drove my mom to work I made a quick stop to the post office and when I went to back to start it the car didnt start the first time instead I got like a whirring sound and no start.
Posted on Jul 22, 2009 Alright it gets complicated. Dropped the rear differential and then the tranny. Get a long wire 8ft with alligator clips on both ends. The power to the starter motor big cable is unswitched from the battery to the the starter solenoid. Use large pliers to screw in calaper piston. Using the starter diagram this really should be so hard. Lovely car but sometimes its a complete beast.
My son purchased a 1995 A6 which has been running until a couple days a go when he went to start it and it was dead. Im at the point where Im pretty sure I have the pleasure of changing my starter on my C5 yet 2. Now I drove the car around for about 5 minutes then turned it off. Description Amp Rating 1 Screwed Connection Terminal 30 — 2 Second Speed Coolant Fan Fuse -S104- 60A 3 Coolant Fan Fuse -S42- 60A 4 Screwed Connection Battery + Cable — 5 Not used — A Not used — B Not used — Fuse box in passenger compartment Audi A6 C6. I know this because they didnt tighten the set screws and the switch was floating. If they move, you have a bad coil pack or two. I took the starter out and also checked A quick update for anyone reading I took apart the dash and found the starter switch had been replaced at some time.
I tested it by using a wire to connect the positive terminal on the starter solenoid to the battery directly. I had the battery and alt tested so I just thought the only thing left is the starter. I searched the forum and found bits and pieces of information so I thought Id ask to verify. Remove the small thin one only. I took the key out of the ignition put it back in the all the lights stayed on which So I took my car in to a repair shop.
For diesel engine models 6. The cost to replace the starter is almost 1000. This goes back to a problem I had last week so Ill recap the whole thing was using phone yesterday and typing is slow. Ive owned the car for over 10 years and know its issues. Rating A Device 1 15A J723 — Keyless Access Authorization Antenna Reader 2 20A U1 — Cigarette lighter 3 5A J502 — Tire pressure monitoring system 4 20A U5 — Electrical outlet front center console 5 15A J520 — Vehicle Electrical System Control Module 2 6 15A J387 — Front right door control module J389 — Rear right door control module 7 20A J245 — Sunroof control module 8 10A J255 — Climatronic control module 9 30A J255 — Climatronic control module Z45 — Left Front Heated Seat Z46 — Right Front Heated Seat 10 5A J523 — Front Information Display Control Head Control Module 11 — — Not used 12 5A R118 — Media player, position 1 R118 — Media player, position 2 R199 — External Audio Source Connection from 11. You just If his car is the 2006 it has a new style ignition switch not the older style plastic switches which would fail around 100k miles. I know theres mention of the Oil Filter being in the way on the 4.
Just today I jumped it and it started with no problem. I dont think jumping the solenoid will hurt a thing with the car off and in park or neutral. If it is what I think it is you may get lucky and are able to start the car in this manner for a few times. Its a 1995 A6 Base automatic with 140k. If not it makes sense what i need to replace. Thank you Nebuchadnezzar I will have a play and see if i can find the sweet spot. Fuses and relay Behind Storage Compartment — Driver's Side.
The alarm worked fine and I didnt want to deal with the multi switch prior to an easy potential fix like the ignition switch so I decided Anyone done this My starter is not engaging and is only free spinning. Then when you are ready touch the other end to a 12V power such as the positive battery Hi All I swear i carry the curse of the audi. Checked everything I can think of. I put the key in and turn it nothing happens its just dead. It seems every time its an electrical problem one way or another.