With all the toys you have and buying leverage i would invest in a snap on scanner, voltmeter, vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge, and service manual. Spark plug replacement is not a bad idea but I would not buy new ones. Now, I have the exact same symptoms, and the failure is hard. Do you have multi coil or coil on plug ignition? While I sat around thinking it over I tried cranking it again 10mins after it shut down originally and it fired right up. Don't know where to go from here. Know it won't start at all.
I will call the customer and ask them a few important questions; when did you see the security light and do you turn the key to on before you start your vehicle. It back fired out of throttle body if I sprayed too much. And last but not least. It's approaching 118,000 miles and has always been well maintained. When I try to start now, headlights go out, buzzer goes on door open and key in , gauges jump. I stopped at a store, when come out.
When the button is pushed, the sending unit is bypassed. Any suggestions on this issue. And it sounds realllly weak on a big ass truck! Other component testing includes fuel pumps, coils, starters, blower motors, and fuel injectors. I've seen some cars burn oil because this system hasn't be properly maintained. Also found that purple solenoid wire, was hot when ign switch was turned to start. Installed the used starter from my parts bin again , and the starting problem was solved!! Changed mass air flow, and entire distributor cap and rotor assembly.
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. First thing I will do is test the battery electronically with my midtronics tester and then load test it. Replaced the starter after bench testing , still nothing. One would be an ignition problem, the other a fuel management problem. Acts like timing is out but it is not.
I did a little research and from what I gathered it looks like you're running a cap a rotor type distributor ignition. If it was a fuel pump issue, the motor wouldn't run at all. Something like that would probably set off one of the O2 sensors and throw a code. I do agree on hooking up a scanner and seeing if i can run a diagnosis test. So, changed it and the van starts on its own.
Could be worn rings or worn valve stem seals, might be time for a rebuild. Whats up with this beast? Leave any questions or comments below. Do you add the Sea foam to the fuel tank or the intake to clean out the carbon? I have no easy way of telling if injectors are clogged without tearing things apart. So I am concerned with timing. I added two bottles, shook the tank, and immediately went to start the truck. I turn key off and take out but buzzer continues with dome light faintly lite.
This problem is compounded by the fact that I can seem to get the van to do over 70 mph before it starts to shake and I smell something like either oil burning or another fluid getting too hot. I did unplug couple of wires and let it dry to make sure. Another theory I heard was the starter motor perhaps drawing too much power? My truck only has 40k on it. Inspected and reseated all fuses in driver's kick panel fuse box. And Chris I didn't see any engine codes except air bag light is stuck on. But they are in the mix, and I have not ruled them out yet. Think about everything that happens when you turn the key on, all the modules are powering up, radio turns on, headlamps and light might come on, all the sensors are getting there reference voltages, etc.
What I do next if there are no other codes that I think relate to the no start, the key code voltage is correct, no other security data pid problems, and after clearing the code it does not reset and the vehicle starts. Started next day, then after 3 minutes, died. Any help on this subject would be greatly appreciated. However, couple of occasion it sounded as if I quieted and started and died off if I sprayed right amount and let the throttle body door open. Fuel pump is good for sure for now at least. I have a 02 Chev Express with the V6 Vortec Engine.
It has an after market remote start, would that disengage the fuel pump? I have had this problem for several years on my Express Cutaway Truck and have replaced everything related to the ignition system and still have the same starting issues. Pulled the cap -- it and the rotor looked fine. I strongly believe this is a ignition and or emissions related problem. These newer vehicles can be a real pita. Over time the moisture corrodes the inside of the cap and the truck will run like crap. Here are some of my possibilities that I can think of but it would be great if I knew which direction to go first. Here are my thoughts on parts it may be: Fuel pump: Fuel pump checks out at 62psi.
I left the Truck sit for several years and the other day I put a Battery in it and it started right up. It just cranked and cranked however I could always hear the pump priming each time I reset the key. When I get the code B2960, I will look through the security data pids for any problem. What are other components that I should check? Also the starter relay is fused to. Please support my industry work; Need carpet cleaning chemicals and equipment? And the miles were higher than I thought on the 2002.