Even with the lever removed, it still looks dorky to have the shift collar on the column and the shift lever sticking off the bottom of the column in the engine compartment, so I'm watching for a tilt column from a manual transmission truck to show up on Craigslist. Truck Years Type Description F-100 1956-1973 Borg Warner T-18 Top loaded heavy-duty 4-speed transmission with cast iron case and shift cover. What happens when water freezes? A hydraulic 435 will be no easy thing either. The switch has a lot of slop in it, which would explain this. The gauge in the dash is reading way too low for the actual pressure. This extra bit of line helps the pump, steering box, hoses, various seals, and the fluid itself to last longer by keeping it cooler. The odd thing is that the computer is successfully controlling the timing, so I'm not sure what's up here.
Overall, it did pretty darned good. This unit is used in Ford F250, F30, F450, and Super duty trucks from 1987-94. All of the ones I had were a bit rough in operation, so I applied a liberal dose of Kroil to the best one and installed it. Pretty much everything on this website is , if you want to use something,. I'll have to try again on a wet road with no one around. That's very not cool, especially considering what this pile of dead trees cost me.
The current one only works part of the time or if you jiggle it , thus making it easy to forget the parking brake is on and try to drive away. The one the books kept listing had the terminals reversed from what the truck appeared to need, so I did some custom parts book hunting to find a reasonably closely sized battery that had the terminals in what looked to be the correct orientation. I talked to dad all damn morning this morning, he's on board with it, but it'll have to wait til we get another dependable vehicle so I can work on this. It works, and is reasonably quiet, but it's kinda annoying and sounds weird. The best of both worlds no clutch but it only changes when you decide! Fuel Gauge It was reading way past full all the time, no matter what tank was selected. Oil will also have to be added, but you can get all that in one can.
There is a special piece of metal at the equalizer that deforms past some level of applied tension. I did some freeway driving, around town, back roads, and even some slow-speed parking lot driving to test out the power steering system. They should all bolt right in and hook up to what I have. Instead, the engine stalled whenever I hooked up the bypass jumper. The whole thing can collapse together in the event of an accident - it's part of the collapsible steering column system.
Removing the clamp bolt and re-installing and tightening it with the shifter held as far away from the dash as possible cured the problem, or at least appears to have cured it. So I've been racking my brain and racking my f! Not a huge deal, I used the automatic trim for now. For now, I just disconnected the buzzer. We took some pics of the distributor to remember where it was positioned so we could assemble the motor quickly and get the timing right. The S650 is found behind diesel engines of 1998 and up Ford Super duty and stripped chassis up to a gross combined weight of 26,000 lbs.
I yanked the gauge and did the two resistance tests specified in the manual - it was shot. The temperature on the gauge stayed nice and even, so no problems there. After those minor fixes, the door switches and headlight switch worked perfectly. The one in this truck had a small leak in it which was promptly found during the break-in process for the. It tracks straight, the engine runs good, and the brakes work well.
I picked up a new set of upper and lower ball joints locally and put them in. To test the steering system, I jacked up the front end and tried to move the tires while checking for play in the steering linkage from underneath - they were all tight. It must have worked too well for too long, so they had to come up with a way to screw it up. I'll do the final install after the wiring under the dash is sorted out. Some conductive battery contact gel plus some cleaning of the contact and some disconnecting and reconnecting to help rub the corrosion off the contact in the connector did the trick. Maybe their work popped out the last air bubble in the system when they checked it? Both motors the original one and the 1987 one I rebuilt were high mileage and I did not clean the upper intake or throttle body assembly I used.
I'm with J on the car thing. Very similar in design to M5R1, but larger with shift lever located in center of shift cover. I also re-installed the knobs for the headlight and wiper switches. Dirt, rocks, leaves, and God only knows what else combined with power steering fluid to make a nasty black substance that looked like cake frosting with gravel in it. Something is amiss here, or the wiring diagrams are wrong again.
It's still not quite perfect for my tastes, but it's not too bad overall. Investigating this with a mechanics stethoscope was not very helpful, so I tried simply replacing the alternator since it's readily accessible and I had two spares. It actually split the metal apart like it was a piece of wood. The sticky stuff that held up the splash shields was long gone, so I had to before I could do this work. I even got a chance to re-install the shifter and shift boot, at least temporarily. The truck then went in for an alignment - my ball joint install was darned near perfect - just the tie rod ends needed adjusting to even things out.