I had not loosened the nut, I had torqued the entire metal brake line until it split. A is available at justanswers. In the van, things get wierd. Two aft bolts were missing for the last 20,000 miles, and it was time to fix the problem. Getting a connection on the ground wire on plug to frame ground, so ground is good. Click on the little graph here to download a pdf document. I changed the coil at the recommendation of a friend that said since i wasnt getting a spark that was the most likely problem.
Then I tried to start and it happily cranked over and over with plenty of power, but did not fire once. A phillips screwdriver easily removed the screw. It does come up to 14 psi. I decided to force +12v onto the Z1 circuitry while cranking the engine. Dan Mc I had the same problem with a 1984 360 engine. Thanks for the advice about the compression stroke. I also decided to run a hot 12-volt line fromt the battery to the back in case I wanted to run any systems and to keep the brake break-away backup battery say that 5 times quickly! One to the immediate side of the main computer box toward the driver side.
Checked for leaks and tightened the ones that were oozing. Just wanted to say thank you for posting that blog. Also, I noted that the original dist cap was on backwards, with the notch facing away from the key. The new left brake cable is on the right side of this rearward looking picture. Relay primary With the voltmeter floated across the relay coil primary circuit, it is 13.
Afterward, the brake warning light is off. The removed piece is staged in this picture just so you can see it. Two for the left window and two for the right window although I only did the left window at this time. The tongue weight was too heavy for my bathroom scale, so I made a little lever arm, measured the distance and calculated the weight of the tongue. Notice the clips to hold the cable sheathing in place are not yet in place between the rubber sheaths and the metal mount flange.
One thing I noticed is that my test for the codes check engine light does not work like it should. There is only 5K miles on the new engine, because in the last 12 years, it never left my driveway, but was used only to plow my driveway of snow. I'm fast running out of ideas. When the key goes on the second click, the pressure hops up to about 3-4 psi and then back down to zero when the guage is not connected, a squirt of fuel comes out of the line - maybe 1 cubic centimeter - but then the flow stops. It provides power to or indirectly to the ignition coil. If you look at the intake manifold it should have the firing sequence cast into it if you have a factory manifold. I found an at dodgeram.
I talked to a mechanic and there was so many things possibly wrong, that it would have cost me a fortune to leave it to a garage. I rotated it a few times but the rusty line just in front of it tore open. Also, I noted that the original dist cap was on backwards, with the notch facing away from the key. More than a certain amount would indicate excess wear. Instead, I used a nylon washer and I hope it will stay in position.
Google images has a pic of the Haynes manual page on repairing fusible links on Dodge vans. I treated them with a propane torch for about 45 seconds and while they cooled, used a 6-point socket and a small ratchet. Trying to figure out why there's no spark. The rubber had separated from the mounting bolt and I was able to unscrew the nut only with a long ratchet arm. When you feel the air rush out past your finger, the rotor should be pointing toward 1 in the diagram. . You might have to jiggle and wiggle it a little.
I would try making my own next time. Normally a brisk snap is heard, but I was getting nothing this time. After about 2 hours mucking around trying to get the sensor out from it's rusty threads, I decided to give up, and took the van to the commerical repair shop to replace the sensor. In picture r2c1, you can see the two terminals, with almost-red copper tips to the little bolt ends. Please help I don't think I can handle much more with this van but I do love it and would hate to have to get rid of it. Later note - Chilton book has a faster way to diagnose. I wish I knew how this worked.
On this cap, there is a raised button between where I believe the 1 and 8 positions are, and the bottom ridge has a small notch that lines up with the distributor casing this was not obeyed by the engine rebuilder as the old cap was installed backwards and it's a wonder it worked at all. So, moving onto the fuel. Check the resistance on the coil. It may take me a day or two to get to it. This would happen even if you preventively did nothing. I found two relay-box looking things bolted to the firewall. I just did it on my 2003 ram, so it should be the same.
It should be visible with the door open and look strait at that end of your dash hope this helps. Tuesday 2 weeks 1 day : Now that my eyes were familar with what to look for, one of the little boxes bolted to the firewall started looking like a relay. May or may not be meaningful. The closeup shows which two wires of the harness I shorted after disconnecting from the relay. It seemed that this is what I wanted because it would be used to light up the brake lights and this is what the controller needed.